Manju's

A fulfilment of a lifelong dream and an attempt to redefine Indian cuisine, Manju's is emboldened by the unyielding spirit of the matriarch it's named after.

This tiny North Laine restaurant has barely 24 covers, but its big heart belies its humble setting. Launched at the ripe old age of 80 by the eponymous Manju, a Ugandan exile who worked in a factory for decades before finally realising her childhood dream, the restaurant isn't content to simply serve the Indian cuisine familiar to anyone who's ever ordered a curry house takeaway. Instead, the restaurant aims to alter perceptions of what Indian cuisine is and can be, shifting the focus from Westernised classics like chicken tikka to the vegetarian cuisine of the Gujarat region.

Authentic Gujarati flavours and fragrances intertwine in the concise menu of sharing plates served at Manju's, including dishes like beetroot pakora, dal makhani, and paneer masala. The meals are served in an intimate space decorated with Indian crockery and pans – expect to rub elbows with your neighbours as you dine, and mind that big groups are discouraged here due to the lack of space.

All in all, Manju's is the kind of place where the backstory, home cooking, and setting all combine to fill your soul, not just your belly.

Daniel Sheppard