Three Darlings

Three Darlings is the more relaxed side of Jason Atherton's eateries, opened with his wife Irha on Pavilion Road in Chelsea in August 2024. This neighbourhood bistro is named after the Athertons' three daughters, and is becoming a bit of a go-to for birthdays and group dinners in the area. The décor is all millennial pink and sleek marble, and it's busy without feeling hectic, making it perfect for dropping in for a coffee or a catch-up brunch with friends. Breakfast rolls into brunch, lunch drifts into dinner, and coffee becomes late-night cocktails. 

The menu starts strong at breakfast with things like eggs Benedict, lobster royale, French toast, and a very good breakfast bun. As the day moves on, it shifts into confident, produce-led cooking, such as prawn cocktail with focaccia, burrata with beetroot, char siu beef ribs, paccheri with tomato and basil, and options like Koffmann fries or soft-serve desserts. Quality British ingredients lead the way, with a few global additions keeping things a little different.

There's also a steak night that starts with good bread and butter, a few solid starters like beetroot and burrata or char siu beef ribs, then gets straight to the point with properly cooked British steaks. Cuts range from bavette and sirloin to rib-eye, fillet and a hefty côte de boeuf for two, all served with café de Paris butter and Provençal fries. There's also classic sides, proper sauces and a couple of easy-drinking wines.

The crowd is a mix of locals, people in the know, and those who've wandered in off Pavilion Road and been lured in by the stylish exterior. There's ample space for dining inside, surrounded by plush baby pink velvet chairs, smooth parquet flooring, walls lined with wine bottles, and a marble bar. The outside dining area is where the space really shines, though, perfect for sunny al fresco cocktails or brunch when the weather is playing ball.

Jessica Dellow