In amongst all the NYC openings popping up in London lately, the lack of Southern American dining spots has been looming larger. On Tuesday of this week the gap was closed behind the heavy doors of the former Counter 71 space in Shoreditch. Welcome to Appalachia.
Now inhabiting the old home of Counter 71 in Shoreditch, Appalachia promises to bring the flavours of the mountainous American South into London's trendiest district. It's an intimate affair with the focus falling primarily on the chef's counter. Food-wise, it's timeless and elevated, though very comforting classics charred on the open-flame grill, served as small plates to share and accompanied by Southern-style cocktails.
Alistair Borer leads the charge here and he isn't shy about making the best use of the flame-cooking skills he acquired during his time at Smoking Goat. Standout dishes include smoked eel and jalapeño deviled eggs, duck heart tacos and grilled poussin with grits. Puddings are limited but no less indulgent, featuring a peach and rhubarb cobbler with milk ice cream and a banana pudding choux bun with salted caramel popping candy.
Downstairs in the bar, it's a decadent love letter to the Lowcountry, where co-owner Ryan Sheehan will be mixing up sleek, Southern-inspired pours like Banana Pudding Sazerac and a Kentucky 75.