Photo: Lucas Amillano Pujalà Photo: Lucas Amillano Pujalà

Von Crumb: Reinventing London's relationship with the humble schnitzel

Daniel Sheppard, Content Writer UK, Thatsup Daniel Sheppard, Content Writer UK, Thatsup
Daniel Sheppard

Von Crumb is an unassuming little spot right next to Belsize Park Station, but it hides one of the area's best-loved culinary secrets. The self-styled schnitzel café turns out crisp, golden-crumbed schnitzels – a nostalgic dish that nourishes both body and soul, yet is strangely hard to find on London's otherwise diverse restaurant scene. We sat down for a chat with co-owners David Ben Meir and Or Yerushalmi to discuss all things schnitzel – from the why, how, and where they launched Von Crumb in the first place, to how they've taken it in surprising new directions and become a big hit even with vegetarian and gluten-free diners.

Photo: Lucas Amillano Pujalà

You met online and bonded over a shared vision. At what point did you realize that schnitzel was the specific dish to build a brand around?

It really was instant. We both had this realisation that while the city has a million burger joints and pizza spots, nobody was doing the humble schnitzel justice. We bonded over the idea that a perfect, golden-brown schnitzel is the ultimate comfort food, yet it was strangely missing from the local food scene.

You have backgrounds in hospitality as well as business development. How did your past experience help you when starting out and planning Von Crumb?

We were lucky to come into this with some mileage in the industry. Hospitality teaches you how to listen to your customers, and business development teaches you how to spot what's missing in a neighbourhood. We didn't want to just open a shop; we wanted to build something that truly fit the local landscape. Our past roles gave us a bit of a compass, but we're still learning every single day as Von Crumb grows.

What was the most difficult element to crack in the beginning – culinary aspects like the specific texture of the crumb, the operational side like sourcing the meat, or the brand's visual identity?

While we spent a lot of time obsessing over the perfect crunch, the hardest part was actually finding the right home for it. We spent over a year searching, initially envisioning a fast-paced 'express' version of Von Crumb. But when we finally stepped into our Belsize Park location, the space told a different story. It felt more like a neighbourhood anchor. We realised then that we needed to tweak the concept to match the charm of the area, moving away from a quick-stop shop to something more permanent and welcoming.

Photo: Lucas Amillano Pujalà

Speaking of visual identity, you've based it on Schnitzel von Krumm, a beloved children's book character. Was it more a matter of convenience due to the name, or do you have personal ties or memories to the character? 

The name actually found us. It started with a gift for my newborn son – the Hairy Maclary series – and we just fell in love with the name Schnitzel von Krumm. When it came time to name the business, we had a list of options, but 'Von Crumb' felt like it had the most soul. We weren't sure if it would resonate, but the British public proved us wrong! The nostalgia factor is huge; people see the name and instantly feel a connection to their own childhood memories. It's turned out to be the perfect way to bridge that gap between a fun brand and a serious product.

It also feels like it complements the menu beautifully – though not as popular in the UK, schnitzel is a nostalgic touchstone in many different cultures, a very comforting, warming dish, like you mentioned earlier. Why do you think that is, and what are your favourite memories of eating schnitzel?

Both David and I grew up with schnitzel as a staple, so it's deeply rooted in our DNA. We've realised that while the name might change depending on where you are in the world, the feeling of eating a fresh, crispy schnitzel is the same everywhere. It's the ultimate comfort food. People connect with it because it's approachable and nostalgic. It reminds them of home, even if 'home' is on the other side of the world.

Photo: Lucas Amillano Pujalà

Your venue is very contemporary, “New London” on one hand, but still has a cosy feel to it. How did you go about getting that balance when setting up the interiors, and what made you choose Belsize Park as your location in the first place? How has the local community responded to your arrival?

The response from Belsize Park has been incredible. Honestly, it feels like we've received a giant hug from the neighbourhood. There's a real sense that the community was waiting for a spot like this. Regarding the interiors, David and I were lucky to be on the same page from the start, and even luckier to have Nirit, David's wife, lead the design. We wanted to create a space that felt 'New London' – clean and contemporary – but without losing the warmth of a classic bistro. Nirit managed to strike that balance perfectly, creating an environment that's stylish enough for a night out but cosy enough for a casual family lunch. 

Coming back to the star of the show, what makes your schnitzel stand out among the rest in London? And without naming any names, is there something you've noticed other restaurants serving schnitzel doing that you think could be improved or you disagree with?

We didn't want to reinvent the wheel; we wanted to perfect it. We brought the schnitzel of our childhood to Belsize Park because we felt the city was missing that authentic, 'homemade' standard. Where we differ from others is our focus on simplicity. Some restaurants try to make schnitzel something it isn't by adding too many distractions. We believe in high-quality sourcing and traditional technique, letting the crunch speak for itself. It's honest food done properly.

Despite the first image that pops into one's mind when hearing “schnitzel” being breadcrumbs and meat, you've taken care to ensure inclusivity by serving both non-meat and gluten-free options, and not just as an afterthought. Can you outline your offering in these categories and explain why it's important to you to ensure such inclusivity? What has the customer reaction been?

We actually realised early on that you can't just try to 'copy' the traditional schnitzel and make it gluten-free or vegan – it will never be exactly the same, and that's okay. Instead of trying to mimic the meat version perfectly, we shifted our focus to making the tastiest possible versions of those specific dishes. We leaned into the unique textures and flavours of our plant-based and GF ingredients to ensure they were delicious in their own right, rather than just an imitation. The customer reaction has been fantastic because they can taste the effort we've put into making those options 'hero' dishes rather than just an afterthought.

Photo: Lucas Amillano Pujalà

Why aubergine for the vegan option? Many modern spots go for fake meats, but you chose a whole vegetable – a refreshing change of pace I'm sure vegan diners appreciate. What is it about aubergine that makes it the perfect plant-based canvas for a schnitzel? 

For us, it was about respecting the ingredients. Aubergine has this wonderful, earthy richness that actually complements the savoury notes of the breadcrumbs. By using a whole vegetable, we're able to offer something that feels fresh and 'chef-made' rather than processed. It's been a hit not just with vegans, but with meat-eaters too, because it's just a great-tasting dish in its own right. It captures that 'comfort food' essence we're known for without trying to be something it's not. 

These are tough times for the hospitality sector. What are the biggest challenges you face day to day, especially as a relatively young business?

The day-to-day challenges are real, from navigating the current economic climate to the lack of government focus on helping small hospitality ventures thrive. It's sad to see the high street lose its character to big brands, but the 'hug' we've received from our customers keeps us going. They appreciate that we're doing something authentic. We focus on what we can control: the quality of our schnitzel and the warmth of our welcome. We're in this for the long haul because we believe the city still needs independent voices. 

Your concept seems like it could be relatively simple to expand to multiple locations. What are your plans for the future?

The future looks very exciting. We still have that original 'express' concept in our back pocket, and we think it would work perfectly in busier, high-footfall areas of London. We've proven the concept here, and now it's about scaling that quality without losing the soul of what we do. We're looking for the right investor to join our journey, someone who understands that schnitzel is a global favourite and wants to help us make it a London staple.

If all this talk of schnitzel has you hankering for a golden-crumbed delight of your own, head here to book a table.

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