Marksman

Refurbished in 2015 by its new chef owners Tom Harris and Jon Rotheram, Marksman in Bethnal Green quickly rose through the ranks of Hackney boozers on the strength of its revamped menu. A year later, it became the first pub in London to be named Michelin Pub of the Year and received the Bib Gourmand, and the buzz surrounding it is still very much alive all this time later.

Squeezing through the tight entrance into the ground-floor bar area, only the “bar snacks” board provides a clue that this is anything more than your typical neighbourhood local. A nice one, to be sure, with wood panelling, old-timey lighting and a stately bar, but nothing particularly out of the ordinary. The stairs to the sunny terrace are also easy to miss, though you’d regret it if you did - keeping watch over Hackney with one of the various craft beers on offer in your hand is a special kind of serenity.

The dining room one floor up is a muted communal space with low ceilings, offset by vibrant wedges of colour all around. It’s a lovely spot to spend time poring over the menu and sizeable wine list in, and with choices such as grilled megrim, chicken & wild garlic pie and sheep’s milk dumplings in the running, the decisions don’t come easily. The menu changes every day, though dishes that have become a part of Hackney folklore, such as the brown butter & honey tart or the filled buns, seem to be a fixture and help ensure that Marksman still hits the spot.