Sael

Sael is Jason Atherton's ode to the seasons and to the very best of British produce and cuisine. The name itself comes from Old English for “season” or “occasion,” which fits perfectly, because it's the kind of place that works for just about any one of them. Come for a weekday lunch, pre-theatre dinner, or a night out with cocktails at the upstairs bar.

Inside, it's understated and elegant, with marble floors, moss-green leather banquettes, brass accents, and a striking central bar pouring perfectly cold pints for a fiver (yes, really, in St James's). Although it may look fancy, there's an ease and warmth here that makes it feel more relaxed than your typical fine-dining address, especially at this postcode.

In the kitchen, Chef Sam Mills (formerly of Pollen Street Social) crafts plates with the finest British ingredients and adds Sael's signature twist. Although the menu changes with the seasons, expect dishes like wood-fired figs with stracciatella and cobnut hummus, South Coast clam chowder with Welsh garlic sourdough, and a playful Marmite custard tart. From the embers, there's everything from Cornish lobster with coral butter and toasted spelt to a 100-layer snail and ox cheek lasagne. The steaks are also serious business. Sael takes great pride in using the best British cuts, cooked over wood fire using traditional British techniques and proper care.

Sundays, though, are when Sael really leans into its British roots. The roast, which includes Cumbrian shorthorn sirloin with ox cheek–stuffed Yorkshire pudding, crisp Koffmann potato rösti, and rich Sael gravy, is one of the most impressive in London right now. There's also a golden chicken pie for two, perfect for sharing with a glass of English sparkling wine. Even better, there's a kids' menu, making it one of the few refined spots in St James's that actually works for families.

Upstairs, The Blind Pig is the swanky speakeasy cocktail bar serving next-level drinks at Sael's surprisingly down-to-earth prices. It's one of the area's best-kept secrets, ideal for a post-dinner Negroni or a night out in its own right.

The crowd is a mix of suited-to-boot St James's locals, trendy Soho regulars, and Londoners who care about good food without the fuss. Sael is a love letter to British dining, and it's nailing every bit of it.

Jessica Dellow