We were invited to experience North-Western Indian cooking at Empire Empire in Notting Hill. Though we expected very good things at this well-established Indian eatery, what we didn't bargain for was that we'd still be talking about gulab jamun and meringue cheesecake a whole week later.
Empire Empire comes from Harneet Baweja and Devina Baweja, the husband-and-wife team behind Gunpowder. At Empire Empire, refined cooking and playful 70s motifs couple together in a distinctive nod to the carefree days of the owners' youth. From the outside, the restaurant looks sophisticated and sharp, but step inside and you're transported into a homely 1970s-inspired dining room complete with a working jukebox, retro touches and even a photo booth. We made the mistake of trying to squeeze inside the aforementioned booth, only to discover there's a better option: the team are armed with a Polaroid camera. Although Empire Empire certainly offers an upscale dining experience, the intimate dining room, handwritten menus and friendly staff create a warmth here that feels genuinely welcoming.
Seated outside on the sunny street terrace, we kicked things off with the house lemonade and local pale ale before diving into a kale patta chaat, whose crispy, flaky layers melted in the mouth. The following mains showcased why Empire Empire has earned such a loyal following. The namesake butter chicken was rich, silky and deeply comforting, and the Lucknowi lamb chop was packed with fragrant spices and smoke from the tandoor. Alongside them, the dal makhani proved to be an essential order: slow-cooked, creamy and the perfect companion for warm parathas. The tandoor tucked inside the restaurant turns out next-level buttery breads, but we'd recommend the parathas for rings of croissant-level lamination.
For us, the gulab jamun crossed with meringue cheesecake proved reason enough to book a table here. Combining the syrup-soaked sweetness of gulab jamun with the lightness of meringue and the creamy indulgence of cheesecake sounds ambitious on paper, but the execution is pillowy goodness, incorporating three different layers of texture and softness in each bite.
Empire Empire manages to balance style with substance, delivering polished North-Western Indian cooking in a setting that feels both fun and effortlessly relaxed. Come for the excellent curries, stay for the warm hospitality and whatever you do, don't leave without ordering pudding.