Review of Lilla Ego – by Hanna W.
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April 2020, 20:30
In a small room in Vasastan, the santa glosses scent is dense. Someone has just celebrated their birthday. A short, fun menu and a happy hello in the door. Expectations are high for this hyped tavern. In addition, Tom Sjöstedt is a big favorite, in life and on the cookbook shelf. Me and my company order Roe for 2 people (SEK 235 p person), Turbot with savoy cabbage, cucumber and barbecue mayonnaise (SEK 345), Clean with mushrooms Jerusalem artichoke and pepper (SEK 325), Sea buckthorn ice cream with brownie and chocolate ganache for 2 people (SEK 135 p person) and an Apple ice cream with ginger, spruce shoots and butter-browed crumbs (SEK 135).
So why don't I love Little Ego? All dishes, including dessert, have an all too tangible saltiness. First bite, very tasty, a whole plate? No. Raw materials are overpowered by salt and butter, which means that they do not come into their own. Maybe this was an extra stressful day, my company testifies that it has been better on a previous visit, but in all honesty, when a griddle with raw rockets costs SEK 470, I expect more. The dishes are beautifully decorated, and that in itself creates hopes for balance and thoughtful flavor combinations, which I unfortunately don't feel are delivered at this point. Like the apple ice cream dessert, for example, where spruce shoots and small ginger pieces (both very sharp flavors) run over the mild apple ice cream.
Other curiosities: The waiter spills the table neighbor's wine on another guest, doesn't apologize, and then waits 20 minutes before replacing it with a new one. My party asked for an extra slice of bread for their bowl of butter while waiting for the food, the waitress replies "only one per person". Personally, I thought the dry piece of bread was reminiscent of an SJ roll.
Will most likely give Little Ego another chance, below reviews suggest that there is more to be gleaned here.
