Review of Agrikultur – by Agnes L.
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When the rumor began to go that this year's chef 2014 Filip Fabian would open his own together with Joel Åhlin, former head chef on line Ten, I think the whole of Stockholm had high expectations. Expectations are always trixigt but with hindsight I do not think they have wondered about it and really focused on implementing their dream. I like their dream and are happy with it again.
In Chez Betty's old premises, they have created a subtle small room with small details that you barely notice but if you rest your eyes on them for a moment, feel that they fit in. Of course they have firewood at the door because the kitchen is occupied by the large Vedugnen and it is clear that the window is the kitchen station so you both see your food cooked and see how clean they have it. Sure, one can complain that there will be such small puffs of smoke sometimes and that you smell easy of smoke When you walk away but it is part of the experience and nothing you should put emphasis on.
They release the tables 30 days before and it is clearly a must to reserve a table if you are not spontaneous and want to sit in the bar. They are open Monday to Friday, good to know.
The menu consists of 4-5 dishes at a fixed price of 615 KR (January 2016) plus a couple of snacks and finishing cakes.
It is clear that it is difficult to describe individual dishes because the menu varies day to day but worth mentioning is that they focus on very green, to take advantage of all parts and pure flavors. Our first snack was deep-fried cod skin with bleak roe and then was one of the rights just skrei cod so no wastage. They use different textures to make even the greenest of dishes interesting and making use of crispy kale as the foundation of a "sandwich" is both good and smart.
The wine list looked to be interesting and consists of a first page with tips for wine to each right and then more go into the big list. Non-alcoholic alternative is a standard for how good a restaurant is in my eyes and here I could get bubbly kombucha to the food and I applaud it. Good äppelmust are also available.
What I think is so nice and that makes me push up the extra star is the familiar mood, cool (slightly odd) music selection and that they receive children. It is so easy that this type of place becomes a bit stiff but a charming child in the middle and unexpected music blurs it off in a flash. Incredibly good acoustics in the room so you can hear what everyone says and only in the background have a moderately high buzz of other guests.
The service is impeccable. It is delicate, professional, well-informed and just enough.
So giving five stars is always strong after a visit but with well-balanced flavors, an affordable menu, cool music and subtle service, it's hard to give anything else. If you want a quiet evening with good friends, where you enjoy the food, conversations and good drinks, agriculture is the place for you. If you are looking for "dinner & A show" to be overwhelmed and surprised, you can go elsewhere.